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Big Nature
By Richard Whiting
Copyright 2000 Richard Whiting
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I had known Gina since our family had moved north the previous spring. I hadn’t expected life to be too easy at a new sixth form college, and I’d been especially apprehensive about being a southerner a long way from home.
But
the very characteristics that I felt betrayed my southern-ness had made
friends of Gina and myself. I waltzed unopposed into the cricket eleven
on the basis that they currently had a side consisting of ten players,
and Gina was a real cricket addict. Her father played club cricket for
Selkirk and it turned out that she had been watching the game since she
was old enough to walk. She had inherited her father’s love of the
game (unusual in a Scot) and was delighted to find that our school in
Berwick would once again boast a side. As I was English, from Essex and
labeled myself an ‘all-rounder’, she rated me somewhere between test
hopeful and, rather tenuously, probably the best cricketer Berwick Upon
Tweed would see in a generation.
Our
relationship gathered pace, despite my cricketing skills not quite
matching her hype. We were both aiming to train as English teachers,
loved history and also to shudder uncontrollably on the terracing at
Shielfield Park watching Berwick Rangers Football Club, or the Bandits
speedway team.
I
couldn’t describe Gina without first saying that, like a good work of
art, she somehow displays something fresh each day. Like the
Northumbrian countryside, her colours vary wildly, subtly, across days,
hours or fleeting moments. Her eyes are green, like emeralds in the
spring, or like a sheen over the ice in winter. Her hair is deep brown,
often offering a tinge of red, and cut off abruptly about her shoulders.
Like the tide that rises suddenly, almost quicker than the eye can see,
filling the magnificent rock-filled bay of Berwick, her temperament can
at once be gushing or remote. She is offering advice, then her words
often seem unable to keep pace with her heart; or she is distant,
silent, and cogitative, like Lindisfarne at high tide, a beauty out of
reach.
And
so it would seem, to my impartial Southern eyes, that here was a girl
that could almost be said to have sprung from the soil of her native
land. To Gina, such a poetic ideal would seem too neat a categorization.
Her father, as I’ve already said, is a Scot staying (as they say in
these parts) most of his life in Selkirk. Her mother is from Berwick
Upon Tweed, where Gina’s family has lived for three years. This is a
concession to Gina’s mother whose own mother has become frail and,
latterly, ill. This, of course, makes Gina half Scot, half English. An
interesting cocktail one might argue.
I met Gina today, as pre-planned, on the steps of the Town Hall
in Berwick. She wore, unusually for her, a solemn look that instinct
taught me spelt trouble. I had seen similar looks in ex-girlfriends,
moments before the ‘we’re going nowhere, Rob’, or ‘I’ve been
seeing someone else,’ type of statements that had spelt foreclosure
for previous relationships. But somehow this seemed different, less
centered at me, more a deep and very personal hurt that I was yet to
become aware, or part, of.
‘Oh
Rob,’ began Gina, throwing herself to her feet and leaping into my
arms from a step higher. ‘Hold me…please…’
I
held Gina to me and waited for her gentle sobs to subside. This was a
moment for silence, for patiently waiting for her to recover her
composure enough to reveal the source of her, and it seemed like this,
grief.
‘Is
it your Gran?’ I offered, trying to break a silence punctuated only by
a group of squabbling herring gulls overhead.
‘N…no..’
stammered Gina. There was a brief silence, before she regained enough
composure to meekly say,
‘Mum
and dad.’
‘What’s
happened, are they…’
‘Oh
they’re fine Rob, you know nothing horrible’s happened to either of
them. Well…it’s the ‘them’ actually. They’re getting
divorced… They told me about an hour ago. Dad’s renting down in
Spittal and Mum’s keeping the house until it’s sold. Then, Oh I
don’t know, I think she’s going to rent and Dad’s away back to
Selkirk. He’s been packing all morning. Rob, I don’t know what to
do.’
‘Who
are going to live with? I mean there’s college. Don’t say Selkirk
Gina, please.’
‘They
both want me to go with them. Dad says I can transfer to
an academy near him, mum says stay here, which I want to do, only
I don’t want to hurt dad. His face was pure pain Rob. I think he’s
fought hard to save the marriage. O.K they have rows. Everyone does,
don’t they? But he looked defeated, not resigned, just totally
defeated.’
‘Do
you fancy going somewhere a little quieter?’
‘Perhaps,
yes. I really want to eat.’
‘Fancy
a Macs?’
‘Not
quiet enough Rob.’
‘Compromise?’
‘What’s
that?’
‘When
you negotiate a …’
‘What’s
the compromise, idiot!’
‘Drive-thru,
then somewhere quiet.’
‘Sounds
O.K. I know somewhere we can go.’
‘Excellent.’
Gina
slipped her hand in mine. Her eyes dried sufficiently to reveal a ring
of red around each, as if she had bled for her pain. We walked to my car
without words, but with much understanding.
Just out of Berwick, shortly before you enter the A1, lies the
drive-thru Macdonald’s restaurant. Having slipped my money to the
cashier behind the hatch, she returned in short time with our meals. A
quick fumble through the gears, and we were away, toward that Great
North Road.
‘Right,
here.’
We
entered the A1, North.
‘Scotland?’
‘Not
quite, no.’
‘Not
too fast or you’ll miss the turn.’
‘This
one?’
‘Yes.
Just drive to the brow of the hill and pull in to your right.’
The
hill was incredibly steep. The car laboured up towards what I was sure
would be a summit with some reluctant-sounding engine noises. I found
the turning and pulled in.
‘Welcome
to Halidon Hill.’
‘What
a place!’
‘Scene
of a battle, 1333, between the Scots and English and now a local beauty
spot by day, courting spot by night!’
The
hill was a viewing point. Below the town of Berwick lay like a model
with the Tweed estuary glinting in the sun. The Royal Border Bridge
looked like a toy train accessory, the red roofed houses adding a neat
contrast to the rolling green hills that folded and unfolded around the
meandering Tweed like crumpled velvet. Away in the distance, the Farne
Islands lay peacefully by, Lindisfarne even more mysterious in it’s
obscurity. And looking over it all, like a friendly giant on his
haunches, the mighty Cheviot, king of his range, blue tinged and
magnificent.
‘It’s
beautiful here isn’t it?’
‘I
shouldn’t want to be up here in an easterly squall.’
‘Believe
me, it’s magnificent, even when the weather isn’t good. I’ve
watched thunderstorms arrive over the Cheviots and drop down onto
Bamburgh village, pass over the Castle and away over the Farnes into the
sea. All the time Halidon was bathed in sunlight and Berwick in half
shade. Made me wish I could paint.’
‘Do
you get up here a lot?’
‘Good
place to think. Essays, exam stress, men! Oh yes, and warring
parents.’
Gina’s
eyes became distant again.
‘So,
what are you going to do? I mean, where will you stay?’
Silence.
‘You’re
going to have to make a choice and that isn’t going to be easy. Still,
it’s only until University I suppose, and then we’re out of
parents’ hair for good.’
‘That’s
a good six months away Rob. And I still have to choose which one to stay
with at the end of each semester. I want to stay here, in Berwick.
Berwick is home. It’s beautiful. It’s where my friends are. It is,
for some reason, me. But the thought of leaving my dad, even for six
months and even if I stay with him after every other semester ends…I
don’t know. Where do I belong? Am
I English like my mother because I want to stay in Berwick? Am I
Scottish because I was born there, because my dad is a Scot? Could I
adapt to life in Scotland? It’s not far away, but… Oh I just don’t
know. It seems like the first big decision of my life. Like childhood
has ended and I’m in at the deep end…choosing between my parents;
choosing between two nations; having to decide to which parent, or
nation I belong. I just don’t know where to turn.’
‘Can’t
you just spend equal time with each? Compromise.’
‘I
could. But I need to settle the question of who I
am. While I divide myself between those two I will remain a product
of them. I need to find myself.
An identity. Do you know, if I had to represent my country at anything
I’d be completely lost. Even my football team lets me down. A side
that is in England playing in the Scottish league! Some help!’
‘You’re
over-reacting. You’re a lovely person. You don’t need clear
definitions or labels to be yourself. Just let it surface naturally.’
‘
Look. This is really important. To me.
Once I was a child. A product of an English mother and a Scottish
father. But they were one thing. My parents. Now they’ve split. They are two things,
separate identities, but who am I in all this? I need to know Rob. I
really need to know.’
I
looked once again down upon Berwick. I could see it’s little red and
white lighthouse at the mouth of the Tweed, where salmon poachers sat
casually by the mooring rings on the jetty, casting drift-nets, waiting
for southerly winds to fill them, and then their pockets. Down there
where seals bobbed up above the water, where, even up here, you could
see the white of swans massing in the estuary. A town worth fighting
over, a town that had changed hands between the English and the Scots
some thirteen times. A town that had once spent a period of uneasy
neutrality. A town resembling Gina in beauty and cross-border turmoil.
When the food, to be kind to this American cuisine, was finished,
I looked at a still silent and distant Gina and said
‘
Let’s drive.’
‘Where?’
‘I
don’t know. Follow the river inland perhaps. See where it takes us.’
It took us, in a peaceful afternoon of flashing, sweeping
sunlight escaping from under white cathedral-like cloud, deep into
border territory. We made first for Horncliffe, a tiny village on the
Tweed boasting a beautiful chain suspension bridge that links England to
Scotland, or if you approach it as we did, through Fishwick, Scotland to
England. Beneath the bridge the Tweed flowed over a shallow, stone
filled bed.
‘You
can see how easy the river was to ford.’ I said.
‘And why it was useless as a real border,’ observed
Gina
‘But
beautiful all the same. Worth fighting over.’
‘It
has to be one of the most peaceful places on earth. And beautiful, yes.
I wonder who would claim the bridge if the border battles started
again.’
‘It
wasn’t built in those days Rob.’
‘No,
but it has its two halves in separate countries. It isn’t one thing or
the other. I like the idea of sharing all this beauty. It tells you that
borders are man-made; that nature evolves across miles according to
geological history rather than human upheaval. You might as well ask the
salmon down there what country they belong to.’
We
drove on towards Coldstream and crossed another beautiful arched bridge
that took us back into England at Cornhill-on-Tweed. From here Gina had
a definite idea as to our destination. We drove through the sleepy
village of Branxton and pulled into a small car park at the bottom of a
steep hill.
‘Another
battle sight, Rob.’
‘Those
steps will keep us fit!’
‘Come
on then, I’ll race you.’
Gina
was leaning on the information board when I finally reached the top of
Flodden Hill.
‘This
was where the last battle between the English and Scots took place on
Northumbrian territory. Just over there. 10,000 Scottish and 5,000
English deaths. Even James IV was killed.’
‘You’ve
been here before?’
‘Yes,
and I can read! Look.’
‘So
the bodies, including the King, were taken down…there to the church.
St. Peter’s. I’ll tell you what, that’s a small building for so
big a morgue.’
‘It’s
incredible up here Rob. Tranquil. How could 15,000 people have died
here? I can’t reconcile
all those deaths with the landscape. It’s just so impossible to
believe.’
‘
I guess the landscape is bigger than human history. Like I said at the
Chain Bridge. The wars were just a transitory phase. The blood, the
scars, the bodies are all gone. The nature of the place remains somehow,
untarnished.’
‘Yeah,
Rob I know what you’re saying. Nature is bigger than man. Do you know
my dad used to bring us here? Said that his ancestors from Selkirk came
down here to fight the English. He was proud of it, like it could all
begin again tomorrow. Mum used to laugh at his marrying an English girl,
but he claimed Berwick rightfully belonged to the Scots so she was only
technically English. Stupid really, but I sometimes wonder if he was
joking. He used to quote some poem about Flodden.
Frae
every cleuch and clan
The
best o’ the braid Border
Rose
like a single man
To
meet the royal order.
Something
like that, anyway.’
‘You
know, Gina, you stand here and realize the history and wonder why anyone
could still have partisan feelings. The inscription on the cross says
‘To the brave of both nations’.’
‘Well,
that’s dad. Just winding us up probably. Getting my childish mind to
understand history.’
Gina
stared at the quiet arable land in front of us. The ornate church of St.
Peter’s stood peacefully away in the village. From here James IV had
been taken to Berwick. Lifeless and cold. We would take our tea in the
neo-Flemish splendour of Kelso and return to Berwick ourselves, to carry
on with our young lives.
‘You
know, Rob,’ began Gina, hesitatingly, ‘ the people here, in
Northumberland I mean, well… they just go about their lives like they
always have…birth, school, work, death. That kind of thing. Everyone
just eking out a living the way people always have. Before battles, and
since. And it’s the same over the Scottish border, the Welsh border
and the world over probably. Where cultures are similar there comes a
point where they blur, if not merge. Like here. But the landscape
survives, as you say. What is England? What is Scotland? Where does this
landscape begin and end? I…I don’t feel English…or Scottish. I do
feel… I do feel something though…’
‘In
what way?’
‘I
feel I have an identity.’
‘Since
this afternoon?’
‘Since
always.’
‘But
this afternoon has uncovered it?’
‘Yes…Yes
Rob it has. I’m the child of two nations. Two nations with a history.
Two nations now at peace. Even if my parents aren’t. A product of
ordinary human lives, regardless of nationality. I can, like this
landscape,’ here she swept her hand around the horizon, ‘ survive
the battles that go on around and about me. I really can. And what’s
more, I don’t need a monument, I can stamp my own identity around the
world.’
‘So
your identity. Can we give it a name?
A name that fits your, and this area’s, big nature?’
‘Yes
Rob,’ she said, looking across Flodden field,
‘I’m
a Northumbrian.’
And so it was, with an identity, which knew no borders, only the
landscape and its beauty, that Gina went forward to the challenge of her
world. We moved into a flat near Halidon Hill from where we visited our
respective parents. Even Gina’s parents ceased their marital battles
as time eased by. It was almost as if the countryside had recovered the
peace once again.